Karl Lagerfeld, Modemethode (Fashion Method), Bonn

karl-lagerfeld_schreibtisch1500Bundeskunsthalle Bonn

Until September 13, 2015

Karl Lagerfeld is one of the world’s most renowned fashion designers and widely celebrated as an icon of the zeitgeist. Karl Lagerfeld. Modemethode at the Art and Exhibition Hall of the Federal Republic of Germany is the first comprehensive exhibition to explore the fashion cosmos of this exceptional designer and, with it, to present an important chapter of the fashion history of the twentieth and twenty-first centuries.

Karl Lagerfeld is known for injecting classic shapes with new life and for taking fashion into new directions. For the past sixty years – from 1955 to today – Lagerfeld’s creations have consistently demonstrated his extraordinary feel for the ‘now’. Right from the start of his career, the designer has worked for luxury houses such as Balmain, Patou, Fendi, Chloé, Karl Lagerfeld and Chanel. As creative director and chief designer of Chanel since 1983, he is regarded among experts as the sole legitimate successor to the founder and fashion legend Coco Chanel. Since 1965 Lagerfeld has been designing two – of late even four – collections per year for the Italian house of Fendi, not to mention his own eponymous label.

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Karl Lagerfeld is celebrated as a fashion genius not only for continuously revitalising classics like the Chanel suit, but also for endlessly reinventing himself. Having realised by the early 1960s that the future of fashion could not lie in haute couture alone, Lagerfeld embraced the younger ready-to-wear (prêt-à-porter) lines: „Fashion that does not reach the streets is not fashion“ (Lagerfeld). In addition to clothing, Lagerfeld designs a wide range of accessories to accompany his collections. Equally progressive in matters of distribution and marketing, he advocates bold ideas and a paradigm change in the fashion industry. Since the 1990s Lagerfeld has been complementing his work for luxury brands with collaborations with companies that produce affordable clothes for mass audiences. In 2004 he was the first well-known designer to create an exclusive collection for the Swedish fashion retailer H&M – a successful concept that has since continued with other designers, among them Stella McCartney, Comme des Garçons and Versace.

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‘Modemethode’, Karl Lagerfeld’s ‘fashion method’, is his ambitious, all-encompassing approach: From the initial sketch to the finished garment, from the accessories, the architectural setting and music of the fashion shows, to the photographs and graphic design of press material, advertising, catalogues and window displays –  every last little detail is devised by the designer himself.

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The Film! Click here!

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Photos: David Ertl, 2015
Courtesy of © Kunst- und Ausstellungshalle der Bundesrepublik Deutschland GmbH

Riviera Style, London

London July 15 015 (Large)A review by guest author Tanja Russell.

Fashion and Textile Museum London
Until August 30, 2015London July 15 010 (Large)When in London, step away from the well-trodden tourist path and visit Bermondsey, an unassuming part of town just a short walk from London Bridge, Borough Market and the Shard. The current exhibition at the Fashion and Textile Museum is a must for all lovers of fashion and glamour, for historians, social historians and anyone interested in the development of the modern world.

London July 15 021 (Large)„Riviera Style – Resort and Swimwear since 1900“ celebrates ‘fashion at its most fun’ showcasing the changes in fashion since the late nineteenth century, when bathing became a recreational pastime, as well as being a social history of holidays in Europe.

The exhibits range from very modest knee-length dresses made from woven flannels worn in the early twentieth century to the speed-enhancing Stella McCartney design for the 2012 London Olympics and everything in between. The influence of the French and Italian Riviera can be seen in the British designs of the 1920s and 30s, when Butlins holiday camps and Lidos opened up across the country. Adorned by British travel posters of that era, the main room of the exhibition uses as a backdrop the famous ‘Saltdean Lido’, famous for its beautiful Art Deco design and modelled on an ocean liner of that bygone glamorous era.London July 15 007 (Large) London July 15 009 (Large)Coco Chanel’s monochrome designs, inspired by Normandy fishermen, stand out as the most exquisite of designs. However my personal favourites will always be the fashion of the 1940s and 50s where the cuts and built-in support became much more sophisticated to emphasize and flatter women’s figures resulting in cute corset-cut swim-dresses and halterneck or strapless playsuits The 1960s and 70s were dominated by psychedelic prints and patterns and Emilio Pucci’s design is as recognisable to the keen fashion eye as an E-Type Jaguar is to the car enthusiast, whilst the 1980s designs had all structuring removed to enhance cleavages and high-cut legs, reflecting the Jane Fonda era of exercising and diet.London July 15 018 (Large)A truly fabulous exhibition, „Riviera Style“ celebrates not only fashion, but lifestyle, holidays, social convention and morality in a quirky and light-hearted way that is bound to brighten up anyone’s day. It can be visited until the 30th August 2015 at the Fashion and Textile Museum in London.

Photos: Tanja Russell

Armani/Silos at Milan

L1170225 (Large)„I decided to call it Silos, because this building used to store food, which is, of course, essential for life. For me, just as much as food, clothes are a part of life.“

Giorgio ArmaniL1170223 (Large)40 years ago Giorgio Armani created a new fashion identity, defying the passing of time with subtle shades, smooth fabrics and deconstructed jackets. A thin line between masculine and feminine, between rigour and indulgence, where the secret of modern seduction is unveiled.L1170205 (Large) L1170211 (Large) L1170216 (Large)At the Armani/Silos the designer shows us a glimpse of his world: The dream of a measured, timeless aesthetic approach which has changed not only our way of dressing, but also and above all our way of thinking.L1170185 (Large) L1170179 (Large) L1170177 (Large) L1170175 (Large)L1170168 (Large)Built in 1950 for storing cereals, this large area of 4500 square meters divided over 4 floors, you can enjoy a selection of clothes from 1980 until today. The selection, which does not follow a chronological order, tells the story and shows the styles divided by themes. Themes which have inspired and continue to inspire the creative work of Giorgio Armani.

On the ground floor are the sections of Stars and Daywear. The first floor is dedicated to Exoticism. On the second floor there is a section called Coloration. The third and last floor is dedicated to Glamour.

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11 am – 8 pm

Thursday, Saturday
11 am – 10 pm

Armani/Silos
Via Bergognone, 40
Milan, Italy

Mario Testino in Berlin

IMG_7089 (Large)Mario Testino. In Your Face

Kulturforum
Matthäikirchplatz
10785 Berlin

Till 26 July 2015

“Mario Testino uses the camera lens to transform the most beautiful moments of fashion into immortal visual moments, which in their splendour, sophistication and perfection of form are reminiscent of the major epochs of painting. Mario Testino also makes a transformation in each of his photographs – from a visual witness to the history of fashion to a visual artist who writes the history of art with his works.”

Moritz Wullen, Director Kunstbibliothek

IMG_7108„In Your Face, for me, represents the most free way of expression. As an image-maker people always want to put you in a box. I believe we are made of many different aspects and not always are we allowed to let all these different aspects show, let alone to live next to each other as they do in this exhibition. This particular hanging style for these photographic works allows all of these different aspects of my curiosity to have a conversation; they not only exist on their own but trigger a reaction when being next to each other.“

Mario Testino

IMG_7091 (Large) IMG_7102 (Large) IMG_7103 (Large)For the first time in Berlin, the Kunstbibliothek – Staatliche Museen zu Berlin presents the work of the influential photographer Mario Testino at the Kulturforum. The show „Mario Testino: In Your Face“ shows the full range of his photographic work, in 125 images, placing particular emphasis on its provocative contrasts. This is the first time „In Your Face“ has been exhibited in Europe following its premiere in 2012 at the Museum of Fine Arts, Boston.

It has also been shown at the Museo de Arte Latinoamericana de Buenos Aires (MALBA) and at the Museu de Arte Brasileira (FAAP) in São Paolo in 2014. The exhibition explores and celebrates the innovation and diversity in Testino’s photography, which evokes elegance, irreverence and contradiction. Testino was involved with the selection and layout of the works, juxtaposing formal portraits with private snapshots, nudes with fashion, and black and white with colour.IMG_7092 (Large) IMG_7094 (Large) IMG_7095 (Large) IMG_7105 (Large) IMG_7100 (Large)